![]() ![]() I dont 'think' I have a leak but confess I have never tried to pressurize the exh system with the shop-vac reversed. Its important to allow the manifold & head to expand separately. I would not tighten the studs on the exhaust beyond the specified amount. ![]() The OEM exhaust manifold on a 93LX is the same as on my 91LX, 92LX, 93LX and both of my 94LX's. I have several 2nd generation Escorts all used as daily drivers. I would think that joint would get as hot as the one between the head and the manifold. It seems to hold up pretty well - doesnt char or blow away. I have used the Permatex Rred high-temp RTV on the joint between the output end of the catalytic converter and the intermediate pipe. I can smell fumes in the cabin while I’m driving and I get a check engine light code 172 running lean. I’ve had the exhaust apart 4 times and this problem is killing me. 004 of an inch.Īny advice would be great. I did recently install a remanned cylinder head, but given that the leaks are basically around the entire manifold I don’t think head warpage at the manifold mating surface would be the issue, and I did check the manifold itself for flatness and it was fine up to. So is the only solution to tighten further? Or is there danger that as the metals expand at different rates it could cause more issues?īeyond tightening it more, the only other thing I can think of would be using copper rtv to seal it, but I’m not sure how well that would hold up long term. My only guess as to why this is happening is that the studs/nuts are not applying enough pressure to crush the gasket and air is pushing past. I tightened them to 22 last night just to see if it made any difference but still no seal. Should I just keep tightening the nuts on the manifold studs? The book says 16 to 19 ft. It's a new manifold, a Dorman, had to replace the old because it was cracked. I see bubbles all along the top of the manifold and along the bottom on the spots where I am able to spray the soapy water. I’ve been testing for leaks with the engine off by using a vacuum blower pushing air into the tailpipe, and then spraying the exhaust with soapy water and checking for bubbles. That being said it won’t last forever, and keeping an eye out for the symptoms we discussed above will help you to know when the gasket has failed and allow you to get it replaced quickly and efficiently.My exhaust manifold just won’t seal up. As we pointed out, the gasket itself is a very tough component, and it won’t be a part of the vehicle that fails time and time and again. There we have it folks, those are the symptoms of a bad or failing exhaust manifold gasket. If the noise gets louder as the engine power is increased then that is a real symptom of not a failing manifold gasket, but a failed gasket that needs replacing as soon as possible. You will typically hear either a hissing or tapping noise. Typically the noise will present in one of two ways, with the construction style of the gasket itself plus the way that it has failed being the deciding factor. Essentially, when the manifold fails it can make the exhaust system nosier than it used to be. It is also one that can often show up as the first symptom of an exhaust manifold that is in real trouble. The final symptom is actually one that can be the easiest to spot. So if you’re at the gas station a little more often that you used to be, it could be a good idea to get your exhaust manifold gasket checked out. In practical terms, this could result in you not quite getting the same miles per gallon of fuel efficiency. Again, these are symptoms of a loss of power possibly caused by a bad or failing power gasket.įinally, a fault in the exhaust system can make the engine less efficient than it should be. You may also notice that the car is not as fast to pull away from red traffic signals or stop signs as it used too either.
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